First time back in the gym! Well it has been just over 6 months since I went under the knife, time sure flies by. It seems like eons ago that I was lying in the hospital bed in sever pain but a lot has happened since then, rehab, a trip to Australia, cleared for normal activity, training, sending, and a trip to Colorado.
After the surgery the numbness and pain in my legs that I had been experiencing for years was instantly gone! Sure there was pain associated with the surgery but it was a lot less than what it was before. I played it smart and took the time that the surgeon had suggested for recovery. The day my surgeon said I could start my rehab I was at the physiotherapist ready to start working. My physio gave me the ok to go back in the climbing gym and do some easy traversing. Really? Yup, she said traversing would help stretch some of the shortened muscles and scar tissue, while beginning to build up my back muscles again.
Well that first session back at the gym as much as I was excited let me tell you, there was also major doubt. I got there super excited but while there the pain was much greater than I was hoping for. My movements were restricted and it sure did not feel like it did before. Is this going to be the new normal? If so, my climbing in the future will be much different then in the past. Despite the pain and discomfort I was elated to be back climbing even though I was moving slowly only a few feet off of the ground, I was back in my happy place!
After the surgery the numbness and pain in my legs that I had been experiencing for years was instantly gone! Sure there was pain associated with the surgery but it was a lot less than what it was before. I played it smart and took the time that the surgeon had suggested for recovery. The day my surgeon said I could start my rehab I was at the physiotherapist ready to start working. My physio gave me the ok to go back in the climbing gym and do some easy traversing. Really? Yup, she said traversing would help stretch some of the shortened muscles and scar tissue, while beginning to build up my back muscles again.
Well that first session back at the gym as much as I was excited let me tell you, there was also major doubt. I got there super excited but while there the pain was much greater than I was hoping for. My movements were restricted and it sure did not feel like it did before. Is this going to be the new normal? If so, my climbing in the future will be much different then in the past. Despite the pain and discomfort I was elated to be back climbing even though I was moving slowly only a few feet off of the ground, I was back in my happy place!
Sydney at night. Long exposure shot. During the Christmas holidays we traveled to Australia and spent a month traveling around the east coast of the country. We had a great time taking in as much beach time as possible. I was originally hoping to do a bunch of climbing in Australia but my back was not ready yet. The 15 hour flight over was very uncomfortable for me and it took me the first two weeks of the trip to recover.
A magical secluded beach near New Castle, Australia. This was near the end of our trip and we had a great time playing in the water and exploring the rocks!
My wife’s parents are very adventurous and love to travel but on supported bike trips. A few years ago they road the entire length of Africa, from Cairo to Cape Town, in just over 4 months, last year they road from Shanghai to Singapore, and this years adventure was from Darwin to Sydney. We decided it would be fun to meet them at the finish line and travel around together for a few weeks.
Beachside bouldering! This was a fun little boulder. We had a great time exploring the East coast of the country, heading north from Sydney up to Brisbane and back. If I were to sum up Australia in a few words it would have to be endless white sandy beaches. I will have to head back one day to check out the rock climbing because from what I have heard and seen it is amazing! I did find some boulders that were on the beach and had a great time playing around on them. It was a great trip where I was able to really focus on healing and my rehab exercises.
I had to add one photo of the koalas. They are just so cute!
Back training in the Grandwall Bouldering Co-op in Squamish. Photo by Tim Emmett When we got back from Australia it was time to get back to work, time to get strong again. I was feeling great and very excited to start moving over plastic holds again and even more excited to get back on the rocks. I started frequenting the co-op gym in Squamish and took it slowly making sure I did not take any falls or make any sudden jarring movements. It was not easy though.
There were moments where I wondered if I made the right call. Maybe I should have done more research into alternatives to surgery. But what’s done is done, time to move on and get better. I try to find the positive in negative situations and I tried to not let the tough days get me down. But they sure tested me. No one ever said coming back would be easy. Slowly and surely I was starting to feel better. Moving over the plastic holds in the gym was great for my soul and I felt so excited to be back climbing again even if it was difficult.
There were moments where I wondered if I made the right call. Maybe I should have done more research into alternatives to surgery. But what’s done is done, time to move on and get better. I try to find the positive in negative situations and I tried to not let the tough days get me down. But they sure tested me. No one ever said coming back would be easy. Slowly and surely I was starting to feel better. Moving over the plastic holds in the gym was great for my soul and I felt so excited to be back climbing again even if it was difficult.
First day back climbing outside. I am climbing Burning Down the Couch 11d. Photo by Bill Hawley. It was mid February when I felt good enough to climb outside for the first time and the weather cooperated. I will not lie; I was a little nervous and a little scared. How would it feel? What if I fell, would my back hurt in the harness? The harness sits right on my incision. But man was is nice to be out at the crag! I went to Pet Wall and for my first climb I did Burning Down the Couch 11d and for my second climbed Mata Hari 12d. It was a little nerve racking but felt great to get back on the horse!
Sending The Frontside V12, my hardest boulder problem to date.
Fast forward about a month and I start to feel great! I made some huge improvements, started to train harder and I have been climbing outside as much as I can, which has been amazing! Pure joy! The tough times make you appreciate the good times so much more. When something you love is taken away from you and you are not sure if you will get it back it feels amazing when it comes back! I was able to start pushing myself more and more. Slowly my core tension was returning and I was able to pull moves that last year were not possible.
First time back on Dreamcatcher 14d and it felt pretty good! Photo by Sarah Hart I feel like I am very close to where I was in the middle of the summer last year and it is only April. I have been back on my project, Dreamcatcher and it felt better than I was anticipating. I was able to link the first two thirds of the climb and came close to linking the crux. I have also been bouldering fairly often and I actually sent my hardest boulder problem to date a V12 called The Frontside and also sent two V11’s Encore Une Fois and Siddhartha. I also sent my old warm up for Dreamcatcher, Permanent Waves 13d the other day. I was not sure if I would ever get to the level I was at the previous years but I think I will not only get back to that level again but also surpass it!
Sending Encore Une Fois V11. I tried this problem off and on for a few years. It was nice to finally send it!
As I write this I am sitting on a plane coming home from a 12 day trip to Colorado. We had a lot of fun spring skiing and enjoying the warm sunny weather in Aspen. My wife’s father lives down in Aspen during the winter and we go down to visit him each year. I was not sure how my back would feel after skiing but overall it was better than I was expecting. I am not saying it was pain free, but it was actually not bad and I was able to ski fairly aggressively, the way I am use to skiing. Below is a little video of me having fun on my GS race skis on Ajax Mountain in Aspen.
Alvaro Arnal on Imperior Direct 13a at Hogwarts, Colorado. Each year while down in Colorado I try and get a few days climbing. Last year I went to Rifle and The Puoux, which was amazing. This year my Aspen friend Alvaro took me to a secret new crag near Rifle called Hogwarts. I was blown away with the quality of rock and the routes. The area will be published soon in a new guide book for the West Slope and I know it will be a huge hit!
It feels great to not be in pain anymore and I am excited for the possibilities for future. There is still work to be done and I need to work on my rehab but I am very positive that I made the right decision. Just yesterday I went to try a cool boulder problem at Murrin Park in Squamish called The Summoning Sit V12 and I made some great progress very quickly, maybe a quick send? Only time will tell!
It feels great to not be in pain anymore and I am excited for the possibilities for future. There is still work to be done and I need to work on my rehab but I am very positive that I made the right decision. Just yesterday I went to try a cool boulder problem at Murrin Park in Squamish called The Summoning Sit V12 and I made some great progress very quickly, maybe a quick send? Only time will tell!
Me working out the moves on The Summoning Sit V12 at Murrin Park, Squamish.
