With all of these days outside I have been able to get pretty strong and I have been feeling very fit, the strongest I have ever been! This allowed me to progress on my super project Dreamcatcher 5.14d. A few weeks ago I one hung the route, which was a major milestone. Albeit a long hang, maybe 5 or 10 minutes or so, but it was the first time I had linked the entire upper section of the climb. I still feel like I need more time on the route to gain more fitness but I am heading in the right direction! Check out the little video below of me on the route in late spring. I stitched some footage together, it is not a continues burn.
There are 9 routes on the Big Show and I really want to do them all! Steve Townsend and Alex Honnald are currently the only people who have completed all of the routes on the wall. My friend Mike Foley, who I have been climbing with on Dreamcatcher (he is very close to sending Dreamcatcher) has done all of them but one. So after sending Superman I went to work on Revival 14b, first climbed by Jordan Wright in 2002. Revival is yet another linkup and it starts on Pulse, does it's own independent line into Freewill and finishes up that route. The moves are very cool but hard for me and extremely reachy. I figured out a sequence that worked for me and ended up sending it a couple of weeks ago. I think it is one of the best routes on the wall and the crux is very powerful. So that leaves one to do, Supermanboy 14c, Pulse into Revial, into Patience. Hopefully I can do it!
I spent sometime cleaning and figuring out a way to traverse into the corner from the left side and to my surprise it was possible! It took me a fair amount of time to find a sequence that worked for me using a series of underclings, crimps, and horribly high really bad feet right on the lip. I think it is basically a really awarkard V11 or 12 boulder problem. The corner itself is very fun and I originally thought I would stem the dehidral but I found more holds on the prow. The climbing on the prow was more fun anyways, using some very small crimps and a few big more to jugs.
I am proposing the grade of 5.14b, although I found it hard to grade because of the very unique opening. I am 5' 9" and think tall people will have a challenge with the high feet. There is a predominate theme of the route names on the boulder, most are named after songs by the band Rush, so I thought I would keep that tradition alive naming it Working Man. The name also works well because I do work full time!
Well that concludes this update. Coming soon my trip up Mt Habrich and another float plane bike trip to the Chilcotin's!