Evolv’s latest shoe was designed by Chris Sharma and adds another great shoe to the Evolv line up. I have been using the Nexxo’s since early summer and I am impressed with the shoe. In this review I will list some of the features of the Nexxo and give my overall impressions.
Testing the Nexxo bouldering in Squamish. The heel works great on the many heel hooks that Squamish has to offer. Photo by Bill Hawley
First off I have been using Evolv shoes exclusively for the past 2 years and I am a huge fan of the Sharma designed Shaman. Right out of the box the Shaman fits my feet perfectly and for me they are the most comfortable shoes I have ever used. When Evolv introduced the Nexxo I was excited to try them out and hoped they would be as amazing as the Shaman. After some production issues the Nexxo was finally released early summer 2014 and I could not wait to get my hands on a pair.
You can really see the shape which is created by the tensioned midsole. The one strap works great to keep them on your feet and the rubber on the tops of the toes is great for toe hooking.
So what are some of the features that make the Nexxo different from its predecessor the Shaman? Well first off it is noticeably softer under the foot, which makes the shoe more sensitive. They used a variable thickness rubber under the foot, which is thicker towards the outer edges and tapers towards the center. This makes the shoe feel very sensitive under the foot while keeping them durable on the edges.
Putting the Nexxo to the test on Dreamcatcher 14d in Squamish. They performed fairly well on the difficult slab section at the start of the route but they shine on the rest of the route. Photo by Phil Tifo
One very apparent difference between the Shaman and the Nexxo is the aggressive down turned shape. This shape makes them excellent for bouldering and steep sport climbing where you really need to rely on the power generated by pulling with your toes. I first tried my Nexxo’s in a gym and I was blown away by how well they performed on steep terrain; I was able to stick the smallest footholds on a 60 degree wall with little effort. They are predominately designed for bouldering and steep sport climbing but I found them to perform fairly well on vertical face climbing and slabs. Although, I prefer a stiffer shoes for slab and face climbing such as the Shaman.
Narrow heel pocket eliminates the wasted space behind the heel.
If you have used the Shaman before you will need to up size by about half a size for the Nexxo. They have a very snug fit, which is in part a result of their shape. This shapes comes from a tensioned midsole that is stretched over the shoe when it is being built. By creating this tension, the down tuned shape is theoretically maintained for the life of the shoe. My shoes have held their shape over the few months of use.
The top of the shoe is covered with lots of rubber, which is great for toe hooking, and the heel has a narrow pocket. This narrow pocket fits me very well and there is no void space behind my heel.
The top of the shoe is covered with lots of rubber, which is great for toe hooking, and the heel has a narrow pocket. This narrow pocket fits me very well and there is no void space behind my heel.
I used the Nexxo for the first ascent of The Working Man 14b in Squamish this summer. This route has some terrible foot holds and the sensitivity of the Nexxo's was a necessity for me. Photo by Phil Tifo
Info from the Evolv website:
Features
· Synthetic forefoot for ultimate performance
· Leather from mid to rear for comfort
· Microfiber lining in the forefoot for comfort, performance, and durability
· Combination of "Love Bump" and "Knuckle Box" provides control and power
· Elastic for convenience with instep Velcro for torsional rigidity
· New Evolv Power System - EPow, for tension and power to maximize performance
Specs
· Profile: Downturned asymmetric with "Knuckle Box" and "Love Bump"
· Sole: Variable thickness half-sole Rand: VTR rand (thicker around toe)
· Upper: Synthetic forefoot with leather in rear
· Lining: Microfiber forefoot, unlined leather in rear
· Midsole: MX-P: 1 mm full-length with semi-crescent nylon support
Overall I really like these shoes. They are very aggressive and suited for steep overhanging climbing or bouldering. The variable thickness rubber makes them very sensitive while keeping them durable. I find them very comfortable and I am really impressed with how well they performed. If you are looking to get new shoes for bouldering or sport climbing then you should give the Nexxo a try, you will be impressed.
Features
· Synthetic forefoot for ultimate performance
· Leather from mid to rear for comfort
· Microfiber lining in the forefoot for comfort, performance, and durability
· Combination of "Love Bump" and "Knuckle Box" provides control and power
· Elastic for convenience with instep Velcro for torsional rigidity
· New Evolv Power System - EPow, for tension and power to maximize performance
Specs
· Profile: Downturned asymmetric with "Knuckle Box" and "Love Bump"
· Sole: Variable thickness half-sole Rand: VTR rand (thicker around toe)
· Upper: Synthetic forefoot with leather in rear
· Lining: Microfiber forefoot, unlined leather in rear
· Midsole: MX-P: 1 mm full-length with semi-crescent nylon support
Overall I really like these shoes. They are very aggressive and suited for steep overhanging climbing or bouldering. The variable thickness rubber makes them very sensitive while keeping them durable. I find them very comfortable and I am really impressed with how well they performed. If you are looking to get new shoes for bouldering or sport climbing then you should give the Nexxo a try, you will be impressed.
