Let me start off by giving a little background on the climb. It is situated in probably the most stunning spot in the Squamish area, high up on the side of the bluff over looking Furry Creek and Howe Sound. You drive up a logging road for about 10 minutes and the approach to the cliff is only 2-3 minutes from the truck. The cliff was discovered by local Trevor MacDonald a few years back. Trevor took Canadian hardman Sonnie Trotter up there to check out the incredibly steep prow feature next to the overhanging crack line that Trevor was trying. Sonnie bolted the line and went to work unlocking the very technical sequence. He sent the route and called it The Battle of Evermore late last summer and gave it the grade 5.14a, stating it is like climbing a long V11.
During his efforts to complete the climb he would send me photos of the route and I was instantly taken by the line. I knew I had to do this climb! After Sonnie sent the route he took me there, showed me the beta (how to climb it), and sent me off to battle!
I spent 3 or 4 days last fall working out the moves and figuring out little subtleties that would allow me to go for the send. Winter rolled around and the battle was put to sleep for a few months but always in my mind. It was now April and my friends Steve Townsend and Tim Emmett started their own quests to conquer the battle, which was great! The more the merrier. We swapped beta and figured out better ways to do many different sections. Steve sent the route a few weeks ago, proposing 5.14b or a split grade of 5.14a/b. He got the second ascent.
Now the ball was in my court. I had one hung it a few times and was feeling great but I was still getting to tired on the lower knee bar section. I spent a bit of time really figuring out the specific foot placements inside the grove to allow me to float through this section with a little more ease. I figure the route took me between 25 and 30 tries over 12 to 15 days. These tries most definitely left a mark on my body. It is a very physical climb and I managed to tweak my left knee, tweak my back, tweak my neck, and bleed from almost everywhere! I am definitely really happy with sending the route and getting the third ascent. It is my second 5.14 so I really cannot comment on the grade, whether it is 14a or 14b, but I think a/b might be a good fit. On to the next!
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